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Cairo's Upper-Class District, Dining with Egyptian Friends

Cairo, Egypt

Gated social clubs in a place like Egypt provide a refuge where the wealthy can live in a parallel world… protected from the gritty reality of the streets.

Complete Video Script

Here in Egypt, like almost anywhere, there's a big gap between rich and poor. In the relative cool of the evening, the prosperous streets of downtown are filled with window shoppers and thriving eateries — clearly a world for Egypt's more privileged class.

And gated social clubs in a place like Egypt provide a refuge where the wealthy can live in a parallel world, protected from the gritty reality of the streets.

My friend Tarek, who runs a successful tour company, has invited me out for the evening. Tarek grew up as a member here, he met his wife here, and today their children enjoy this privileged environment almost daily.

These clubs have something for all generations — birthday parties, playgrounds, competitive sports. Adults can retreat to the no-kids zone to play a quiet game of croquet with friends they've been socializing with here with since childhood — or just to watch from the peaceful terrace.

We finish our evening just down the street at Tarek's home, joining his family for dinner.

Rick: So how do you say — in France, you would say, "bon appétit"
Heba: Bon appétit, yeah.
Rick: …in Arabic?
Heba: Bailhana' walshifa'.
Rick: Bailhana'…?
Heba: Bailhana' walshifa'.
Rick: Bailhana'…
Heba: Bailhana' walshifa'.
Rick: That's very difficult. Bon appétit.
Heba: It's easier.
Rick: I think so. Mmm!
Rick: Heba, this is so beautiful. Can you give me please a tour of this beautiful Egyptian meal?
Heba: Sure. This is moussaka; this the stuffed vine leaves…
Rick: Stuffed vine leaves…
Heba: OK, and this is okra with tomato sauce…
Rick: Okra! Nice.
Heba: …very delicious, and this is Egyptian beef with onion sauce, and this is of course, rice, and this is, then, rokak
Rick: Rokak.
Heba: Yes…
Rick: What is rokak?
Heba: It is some kind of pastry stuffed with mincemeat.
Rick: And…
Heba: This is tzatziki.
Rick: Tzatziki! So, we have moussaka…
Heba: Yes, in common with us and the Greeks.
Rick: I was going to say, moussaka, stuffed grape leaves, and tzatziki — a Greek would say, "that's my food" — but it's Egyptian also?

Heba: We cook it differently.
Rick: OK…there we go. Thank you. Shukran [thank you]. So, is it normal for children to speak English and Egyptian [Arabic]?
Heba: Actually, if they're in an international school, yeah.
Rick: And your kids go to international school?
Heba: Yes — American ones.
Daughter: Sometimes on Friday or Thursday we watch on the TV, Netflix — we choose an English movie.
Rick: You can choose, Egyptian or English?
Daughter: Yeah.
Younger daughter: Family movie!
Tarek: Family movie, yes! Every Thursday night it's family movie.
Rick: And Heba, what do you wish for your daughters, to be successful and to be happy?
Heba: To have good faith, good education as well, to be open-minded, self-confident.
Rick: Beautiful. I think you're on the right road. I think you're on the right road.
Heba: I hope so.
Rick: Lovely.