While Istanbul is full of iconic sights, there’s one that seems to be on every traveler’s list: the Grand Bazaar. In many ways Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar remains much as it was centuries ago: enchanting and perplexing visitors with its mazelike network of lanes hiding more than 4,000 colorful shops, artisans at work, and tiny eateries.

Despite all the tourists and knickknacks, the heart of the Grand Bazaar still beats—giving the observant visitor an unforgettable memory. In its day, this labyrinthine warren of shops under fine arches was the “world trade center” for the entire Ottoman Empire — locked down and guarded by more than a hundred soldiers every night.

While today’s main drag is touristy, do what you can to imagine the atmosphere here centuries ago during Silk Road times: the barrage on the senses—exotic spices, busy merchants, convivial tea breaks, and thirsty shoppers.

The market is vast, and you can still escape the tourist zones to discover some authentic nooks and crannies. Surprises await in the low-rent fringes. A commotion of shouting marks the bazaar’s “poor man’s Wall Street.” These currency brokers are frantically swapping fortunes of euros, dollars, and Turkish lira for their clients.

Others keep their fortunes in gold. The many jewelry shops are a reminder that Turks love gold for more than just its beauty and alure. Traditionally, it’s considered a practical and tangible place to store their wealth.

And much of that gold may be recycled. Around the corner, surrounding a humble courtyard, sooty smiths labor over furnaces. They’re melting gold trimmings from nearby jewelers’ workshops back into a pure and more useable form.

For over 20 years, I’ve been visiting Ayhan. His skillful techniques have changed little through the generations as he works his trade.

Ayhan: Gold.

Rick: Gold.

Ayhan: Gold.

And with that gold you can buy a fine Turkish carpet.

Shops can come with a vast inventory offering a warp-and-weft fantasy of options. Enjoy a colorful demonstration…

Merchant: Here I have four amazing art pieces that they are totally different categories. It’s like a modern language. Each region of Turkey, we have different style.

But be attracted not by aggressive sales pitches but by merchants who celebrate this rich artistic heritage.

Merchant: So, the other name of those silk collection rugs are “flying Turkish rug.”