Istanbul’s been a busy trading center from the start, so it needed to be well-protected. This imposing wall helped fortify the ancient Byzantine capital. The wall sealed off the city, protecting it on the one side where the water didn’t. Dating from the fifth century, these ramparts stood strong against both Catholic Europe from the West, and the Muslim forces from the East, until 1453.

That’s when the Ottoman Turks, that aggressive tribe from the East, finally broke through the walls and established this city as the capital of their growing empire. Again, that’s when they transformed Christian Constantinople into a Muslim city…Istanbul.

The Topkapı Palace is where we find the storybook image of the Ottomans — you know: sultans, eunuchs, and harems. The palace, built in the late 1400s, was the power center of the Ottoman Empire for almost 400 years. Its buildings form a series of courtyards — the outer being used for public functions. The farther in you go, the more private the rooms.

Among the most private rooms was the harem. The word “harem” means “forbidden” in Arabic. It’s the sprawling suite where the sultan lived with his wives, female slaves, and children.

Rick: What a room, huh?

Lale: This was the Imperial Hall of the Harem. This was the divan that the sultan used, his throne. The divans by the window were used by the queen mother and the wives of the sultan and the musicians used the balcony up above.

Rick: So this was like the living room for the king?

Lale: Exactly.

And of course, the Sultan enjoyed a state-of-the-art bathroom which came with hot and cold running water. Bathed in light from these exquisite stained-glass windows, this is where the sultan relaxed, entertained, and savored the sumptuous luxury that came with his power.

Rick: Now when we say “harem,” we usually think like a Playboy Mansion with a lot of girls.

Lale: No. No. No. No. It wasn’t like that. Harem was an institution. The idea was to provide the continuation of the dynasty, to provide a future heir to the throne. It was the queen mother who was the boss in the harem. It had rules, very strict rules. The sultan was never above these rules. It’s impressive. Ottoman Empire lasted for six hundred years. Only one family, one dynasty…never changed hands.

Some of the sultan’s opulence is still on display in the palace museum. The exquisite Topkapı dagger wows tourists with its dazzling diamonds and golf-ball-sized emeralds. Clearly the Ottomans in their heyday were a wealthy power.

The palace is also a holy spot for Muslims containing relics of Muhammad and other prophets, some of whom are revered in both the Quran and the Bible. This contains what’s believed to be the arm of St. John the Baptist. And here’s John’s skull inside a jeweled case. For Muslims the most precious relics are those of Muhammad: his bow and sword…exquisite cases containing his tooth, some hair, and his holy seal.

And in the adjacent room a hafiz — that’s someone who’s memorized all 6,000 verses of the Quran — is part of a team that sings verses from the Muslim holy book 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

It’s just one more thread in the fascinating tapestry of a great city. A city enriched by its culture…history…and the diversity of the people you’ll meet in the streets. Istanbul remains a crossroads of humanity. And according to the Turkish proverb: every guest is a gift from God.

Istanbul bridges East and West. With a complex weave of traditional Muslim faith, Western secularism, and modern affluence, it’s a dynamic city…a city the sultans would hardly recognize. Thanks for joining us. I’m Rick Steves. Until next time…keep on travelin’.