Poland’s political capital may have moved to Warsaw centuries ago, but Kraków remains the historic, cultural, and intellectual capital…a proud symbol of the Polish national identity.

Kraków is ideally set on the Vistula River. We’ll explore one of Europe’s most crowd-pleasing squares… marvel at medieval glory…visit Wawel hill—a site sacred to Poles since the 11th century…learn how to make a classic Polish dish—or at least try—and then eat what we cook. We’ll remember the Holocaust at a concentration camp memorial…and with a guide we’ll take a nostalgic communist-era joy ride. Finally, we’ll cap our visit with a twilight stroll.

Medieval Poland was prominent on Europe’s map. In the late 1700s it disappeared—partitioned by its powerful neighbors—and didn’t reappear until after WWI. Then, after WWII, it was part of Communist Eastern Europe. And today, with the Iron Curtain long gone it’s a leading country in Central Europe. We’re visiting Poland’s historic and cultural capital, Kraków...and side-tripping to Auschwitz.

Kraków—or, as locals say, “Crock-oof”—was a trading center, a crossroads that boomed back in the 11th century. Today, it’s a sprawling city of a million with a delightful Old Town.

And everything converges on the majestic and massive Main Market Square. It’s hard not to be drawn to this square. It bustles with life: enticing cafes, families out for a stroll…fairytale carriages…a youthful energy, and, it seems, half the tourists in Poland.

St. Mary’s Church stands tall over it all. Its spire doubles as the town watchtower. At the top of each hour—literally 24/7—a fireman with a trumpet comes to the window and plays a tune to announce “all is well”…a tune that suddenly dies—recalling a legend, in which a watchman’s throat was pierced by an enemy arrow.

Inside St. Mary’s, each midday, is a medieval moment: a nun swings open the church’s much-adored altarpiece.

This exquisite Gothic triptych—with hinged panels—was carved in the late 1400s by Veit Stoss. One of the most impressive medieval woodcarvings in Europe, it depicts the Virgin Mary’s ascent to heaven with emotion rare in Gothic art.

The square’s centerpiece is the Cloth Hall. Once a marketplace for cloth merchants, today it’s home to souvenir stalls. Vendors sell gifty crafts from all over Poland.

Like painted wooden plates from the mountain forests…colorful embroidery, delicately hand-stitched…hand painted pottery from Silesia…and amber jewelry from the Baltic Coast, for your favorite travel partner.

Kraków’s Old Town is compact and easy to navigate. The vibe is relaxed as modern and medieval mix it up.

In the 13th century, after their city was destroyed by invaders from the east, Krakovians rebuilt it with a near-perfect grid plan—today it’s pedestrian-friendly and thriving.

They also encircled their city with a wall featuring classic ramparts and towers. The big, round free-standing fort is a barbican, which provided extra protection at the main gate.

Later, the wall was mostly torn down, leaving just a few evocative remnants. The moat was filled in, and a fine park was created in its place. This circular green belt—called the Planty—is popular with today’s Krakovians. And if you need a break from all the tourists, you can bike or hike around the Planty and along the riverbank. It’s a charming local scene: fun-loving boaters…lazy picnics…but beware the dragon! Oh, and if you think you’re good at chess, challenge one of these guys. The riverside path is inviting…and so is the playful rigging on its delightful pedestrian bridge.