Rome's piazzas have always doubled as the city's communal living rooms, places to gather, linger, and be seen. Piazza del Popolo is one of my favorites.

While for centuries the starting point for pilgrim visits, today it’s the starting point for my favorite Roman ritual — the evening stroll, or passeggiata.

I’m meeting up with Francesca Caruso again to join in the fun. As the sun goes down, the people come out. Downtown Rome’s main street, the Via del Corso, is pedestrianized, and strollers just love it. It’s a scene, offering some of the best people-watching anywhere.

Francesca: I think in the end what I really like about the Italian way of life, and I can really enjoy it here in Rome, is the fact all I have to do is step outside and I'm surrounded by people — I never feel lonely, I always feel connected with a sense of community. I think the passeggiata is a wonderful way of living in the city.
Rick: So, this is just sort of an inclination, early evening, cool of the day.
Francesca: Oh yes. You just go outside, meet your friends, have a gelato, an aperitivo, and just enjoy the city.
Rick: Check out who's with who, who's wearing what.
Francesca: Oh yes, that always — you know how the Italians are so aware of themselves and they like to be looked at, and they like to look at each other.

After dark, Rome takes on yet another personality. And a short walk laces together its top nightspots. Back at Campo de’ Fiori the artichokes and tomatoes are packed away and the social street lamps are turned on. These characteristic lanes, even late at night, feel safe and friendly.

The nearby Piazza Navona is a carnival 365 nights a year. While this oblong square got its shape from a long-gone ancient stadium, today, the games are limited to browsing and flirting around its famous Bernini fountain.

Just down the street is the floodlit Pantheon. It looms high above our 21st century, as if aching to tell its story — 2,000 years of Roman history. And at the same time, it provides a venerable backdrop for al fresco diners.

There’s too much life in the streets to go home yet. The Trevi Fountain’s close by. This bubbly Baroque avalanche — though from the 1700s — seems purpose-built for today’s Roman embrace of life. With history, art, and people perpetually partying under the stars, it’s no wonder people come here in droves for the promise that a coin tossed over the shoulder will assure their return to this Eternal City. That may sound silly, but every year I go through the ritual…and it works!

But we’re not done yet. The final stop on our nighttime walk is back at the iconic and ever-popular Spanish Steps. It’s been the hangout of countless romantics over the years — and, I hope, someday soon…that includes you.

Rome — of course it’s a grand city of Caesar, popes, and floodlit fountains. But for millions of people, it’s also simply home. Thanks for joining us. I’m Rick Steves. Until next time, keep on travelin’. Ciao.