Hey, I’m Rick Steves back with more of the best of Europe. This time we’re in France and our crew includes a captain…and a chef. We’re barging the dreamy canals in Burgundy on a gourmet cruise. Thanks for joining us.

While industrial-age canals are all over Europe, we’re in France, in the region of Burgundy. And we’ll be cruising on the Soane River and the Canal du Centre with side trips into the fabled Burgundian vineyards of the Côte d’Or.

Along with the crew, I’m joined by the coauthor of my France guidebook and mentor in all things French, Steve Smith…who actually lives just down the canal.

Steve and I are boarding our barge in the town of Chalon-sur-Saône …or “Chalon on the Saône River.” Departing from an industrial city like this is a reminder that an economic power like France has long relied on rivers and canals to get cargo in and out of ports. And we’ll cruise a bit of this river before entering the canal.

Huge river boats are popular for relaxing vacations on rivers all across Europe. But with over 100 passengers, they’re too big to venture into the canals. A rusty old industrial barge and beached cargo boats along the riverbank beneath an abandoned factory are all reminder of how these waterways were originally all about transporting freight: coal, wheat, corn…you name it.

This massive lock has lifted barges up to France’s Canal du Centre for a century. And today, it’s raising us…up away from all the industry of the river…and into a more charming world.

These delightful greenbelts support a playful wonderland of people enjoying life. The scenery is like a slow-motion parade through the rural charms of Burgundy…delightful village scenes, sleepy cows, a mesmerizing tranquility…

Rick: It is so beautiful.

Max: Yeah, it’s amazing.

Rick: Do you ever get tired of this beauty or is it always…

Max: I am never bored with it. No, it’s always interesting, many different place, many different canal.

Captain Max grew up on canal barges. He loves his boat, he loves his work, and he enjoys sharing his chart.

While originally built to carry coal and grain…these days barges carry tourists and the canals are all about recreation.

Rick: So we could really explore almost all of France on canals like this…

Max: And rivers.

Rick: It’s a beautiful way to travel.

Max: Yeah, and it’s a wonderful way to travel because everybody take care of you.

Rick: As a captain, Max, you have to be patient also. If there’s a boat in front of you…

Max: You need to wait.

Rick: Because you can’t turn around, you can’t pass.

Max: I know…

Locks are an integral part of any canal trip. One at a time, barges slip in. Fitting like a glove, they rise or fall with the water level. As the size of the locks hasn’t changed in 200 years, generally neither have the barges. Locks like these—this is an extreme example in England—allow boats to climb or descend steadily, little by little, a few feet at a time…stair-stepping all across France. Using rivers, canals, and locks, you can float from the Mediterranean over the Continental Divide and all the way to the Atlantic. The pace of barging almost forces you to slow down and relax.

A big part of the fun of cruising on a barge are the stops. Tiny ports along the canal serve as a cross between a park and a marina. And they provide a springboard for creating memories.

Canal barges are often a century old and refurbished for their second act as floating hotels. They vary in amenities but generally come with a cozy lounge…a well-stocked bar…a small but elegant dining room…and ship-shape staterooms.

Of course, deep down is the engine room…originally steam, converted to diesel. Lovingly maintained, it hums reliably…and quietly. The deck puts the joy into our joyriding…and I love a little time up in the helm, making sure Captain Max remembers to duck for the bridges.

It’s time to work up a bon appétit with a little hike. With a lock every mile or so, and a towpath always along the canal, it’s hard to get lost.

Rick: So it’s a good walk?

Philippe: It’s a beautiful walk…and we’ll see you in two locks.

Rick: Two locks.

Philippe: That’s right.

Rick: See ya! Au revoir!

Rick: It’s great how these towpaths are appreciated even to this day.

Steve: Imagine, when these canals were first built, they needed these towpaths to pull the boats.

Rick: Before they had steam engines.

Steve: Before they adapted the engine, yeah. They used horses, donkeys, humans…

Rick: —prisoners. Today, it’s recreation.

Steve: It’s all about recreation today.