A Leisurely Day on a Burgundian Canal
Burgundy, France
A crack-of-dawn trip to the bakery before breakfast on our barge, a tow-path bike ride, side-tripping to an abbey and a château, and a game of pétanque before a gourmet feast from foie gras to a raspberry soufflé.
Complete Video Script
We’re enjoying another day of our gourmet barge cruise on a Burgundy canal. In France, eating delicious food isn’t a special occasion—it’s simply a way of life. First mate Phillipe starts his day with a trip to a nearby bakery.
Locals appreciate the baguettes fresh out of the oven. And this baker…he’s a local hero. French people from all walks of life share this ritual…a love of fresh baked goods in the morning…
The French passion for eating well and with just the right ingredients begins with the first meal of the day: homemade jams with croissants still warm from the bakery…seasonal fruits…and—after all this is Burgundy—more cheese!
Rick: This is Burgundy.
A great morning activity is a bike ride.
Wherever there’s a canal there’s a towpath—and they’re a favorite with bikers.
We share the path with an array of bikers of all abilities, and the occasional fisherman.
We can choose to stay canal-side, or ride into the nearby vineyards, where service roads double as bike paths, and convenient signs point the way to pit stops of every varietal.
Many barge tours include a van which makes side-tripping easy. Burgundy’s top sights are mostly within an easy drive. The region is crisscrossed with canals and dotted with quiet farming villages. With rich traditions and a proud heritage, there’s plenty to see and experience, from family-run châteaus, like Rochepot, to venerable medieval abbeys, like Fontenay, all nested in the inviting Golden Hills—some of France’s most prized real estate…blanketed with beloved vineyards. It’s Burgundy’s Côte d’Or.
After a glorious week, I’m into the canal vacation groove. However you travel here, the proper tempo for enjoying the canals of Burgundy is…relaxed.
For our final stop, we moor at an idyllic canal park named Saint-Julien.
Steve and I have challenged our crew to a game of pétanque. It’s us against Meg and Phillipe. Pétanque is a favorite pastime in France…and whacking each other’s balls is a perfect way to spend a convivial hour canal-side with a traditional pastis. I like the game because it’s quick and easy to learn…and even first timers can be competitive.
As emotions on the court build and appetites are stoked, back on the barge our chef prepares one last tasty lesson in French cuisine. The French love to creatively pair ingredients: like fresh figs, simmered in butter and wine, with foie gras, the rich duck liver pate. This pairing gives the classic contrast in textures and flavors: foie gras is buttery, savory, and delicate while figs are sweet and juicy. Yes, the sweetness of the fig balancing with the richness of the liver…it’s deliciously French.
Rick: This is truly the quintessence of richness. No, you got to have it with the wine.
Steve: That is superb.
Rick: Delightful.
Back in the galley, it’s all about piping the cream potatoes and horseradish…and then a serving of the regional favorite that just screams Burgundy…a rich beef Bourguignon.
Rick: This looks good.
Steve: The best beef in France is from Burgundy. It’s those white cattle we’ve been floating by, the Charolais. They make the best beef sauteed with red wine, which is also…
Rick: Burgundian.
Steve: What could be more regional than this?
Rick: There really is something about that zero kilometer philosophy where you’ve got the local cows and the local grapes. The sauce is worth really…
Steve: It’s everything.
Rick: —appreciating.
Steve: That’s why the spoon is kinda nice…
Rick: Mmhm, look at that.
Steve: —and the bread.
As the balmy evening fades into darkness, perfectly formed raspberry souffles cap our meal. Ah, and I thought I was full. There’s always room for a little more of edible France…and another tasty memory.
I’ve long enjoyed France and the range of experiences it offers. And I gotta say…a gourmet barge vacation in Burgundy? C’est magnifique! Thanks for stowing away with us. I’m Rick Steves. Until next time…bon voyage!