The Cinque Terre is five little towns—beautifully isolated in the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riviera.

As if designed for good times, you can explore the region’s rugged little ports, follow a wine train high into the vineyards, make pesto in its birthplace, dive from spectacular cliffs…and hike—soaking up more sun and scenery than you can imagine.

The Cinque Terre, which means “five lands,” was originally described in medieval times as “the five castles.” Tiny communities like this grew up in the protective shadows of their stony castles—their people ready to run for refuge at the first hint of a Turkish pirate raid.

As the threat of pirates faded, the communities grew with economies based on fish, olives, and grapes. Today, the big employer is tourism. Each rustic town is a variation on the same theme: a well-whittled pastel jumble of homes filling its ravine. These days the castles, which used to protect the towns from marauding pirates, guard only glorious views.

This 10-kilometer stretch of coastline is the rugged alternative to the glitzy Riviera resorts nearby. The traffic-free charm is a happy result of its natural isolation. Just sun, sea, sand—well, pebbles—and people. For me, this is Italy at its most relaxed.

For a home base, choose among the five villages. The most popular: Vernazza, where the big news is the hourly arrival of the train bringing an almost rhythmic surge of visitors into town. There’s one main street—it runs from its train station down to the sea. Of the five towns, Vernazza has the closest thing to a natural harbor.

The old castle no longer says “stay away.” Instead, it seems to welcome people-packed excursion boats. Settle into a comfy spot on the breakwater. Study the arrangement man and nature have carved out here over the last 15 centuries. Crumpled hills come with topographical lines: a terraced, green bouquet of cactus, grapevines, and olive trees blanketing the surrounding hills.

Today, the castle functions as a tourist lookout…and a restaurant. And the fort’s lowest deck is perfect for a romantic meal. For a sweet dessert wine, sip the local Sciacchetrà. It’s served with biscotti…ideal for dunking. Savor the view and the unforgettable setting.

Italy’s Cinque Terre is an irresistible mix of nature, culture, and human activity—well-worn locals, sunburned travelers, and inviting family-friendly piazzas. Sure, the place is now well-discovered. But I’ve never seen happier, more laid-back tourists. While the Cinque Terre now endures the storms of the modern world, the region’s charms are as endearing as its people are resilient.