For many, the quintessence of Italy is found in the regions of Tuscany and Umbria. That’s where feisty little towns were perched on hills for safety in centuries past. Today, each hill town comes with reminders of a hard-fought history, a rich culture, and enduring traditions.

And there are many hill towns to choose from: Siena maintains much of its medieval character. Its sprawling main square and towering city hall recall the days when it rivaled even Florence.

Assisi—with its walls, gates, and castle—was home to St. Francis. Its massive basilica remains a favorite destination for countless pilgrims today.

Volterra was an Etruscan capital centuries before Christ. Within its ancient wall, the town’s rustic center offers an evocative Tuscan charm.

San Gimignano, with its prickly skyline, stands like a medieval mirage on its hilltop. Of the original sixty or so towers, about a dozen survive. Back before there was a strong central government, rich people fortified their own homes with towers like these.

And the country of San Marino—all 24 square miles of it—is unique in that it’s still independent. While novel today, tiny two-bit dukedoms like this were once the norm.

Medieval Italy—like most of Europe before the rise of modern nation-states—was a collection of independent little San Marino-style city-states—many of them were just fortified towns on hills.

The good traveler can still discover magic hill town moments. Civita de Bagnoregio, perched on its pinnacle in a grand canyon, is a classic, if tiny, Italian hill town.

Entering the town, you’re enveloped in history. Passing under a 12th-century arch, you enter another world. Every lane tells a story—especially if you poke around…and talk to people.

Maurizio: Come Rick, I want to show you my mill.

The olive mill Maurizio’s grandfather once ran is now the centerpiece of his restaurant…and he’s happy to tell me how grandpa made the olive oil…and how that olive oil helps make an unforgettable bruschetta.

Maurizio: You have a good extra virgin olive oil and you’re ready for a big bruschetta.

A good bruschetta is simple: bread toasted over the coals… garlic…tomatoes…salt and oil. Enjoying a rustic bruschetta is a fine way to cap a visit to a rustic village like Civita de Bagnoregio.