The best way to feel the pulse of urban Istanbul is to explore its teeming main shopping boulevard, İstiklal Caddesi, or Independence Street.

Offering a parade of local culture, it was born after a devastating fire in 1870. The Ottoman government took the opportunity to rebuild the area as a showpiece of the European style. The message? Look west.

The fine old architecture is a reminder that this street was home to the city’s Europe-oriented elite back in the 19th century. Even today, Istanbul’s churches and foreign consulates are in this district.

It’s just teeming with people. I love to lose myself in this river of humanity. And it’s lined with shopping temptations.

This fine shop sells silk scarves—made in Turkey, of course.

Lale: Tulip is the Turkish flower.

Rick: That’s great. This pattern is so beautiful

Turks know how to spiff up their look with a scarf around the neck, or as a head covering.

Rick: And if you wanna go to the mosque, which scarf would you wear and how would you wear it?

Merchant: If I went to mosque, I wear the long one.

Rick: Uh-huh.

Merchant: Like this. It’s enough for me like this.

Rick: So you say “enough for you.” Every woman will choose how much modesty?

Merchant: Of course, of course. If she’s religious, also she can wear like this, in square one, for example.

Rick: If she’s very religious?

Merchant: Yeah. Yeah. She can put a pin here, then she do it like this.

Rick: Oh, OK.

Merchant: She can put it here.

Rick: So this is an accessory…

Merchant: Yeah.

Rick: …to cover the hair.

Merchant: Yes.

So true to the culture, and easy to pack—a silk scarf makes a nice souvenir.

And the street offers an enticing parade of taste treats. Döner means “revolving,” and you know why when tempted by a döner kebab.

You can try the sesame rings called simit…along with your tiny Turkish vocabulary:

Rick: Bir simit, lütfen.

One ring, please.

And for a fast meal with no language barrier, ever-present cafeteria-style restaurants offer a cancan of fresh and traditional Turkish food. You’ll choose from a range of classic Turkish dishes.

I’m having cabbage rolls, lamb chops, and potatoes. And something I always look forward to: my go-to yogurt drink here in Turkey, ayran, and my favorite dessert, rice pudding, or sutlaç.

But on this street, rice pudding is just the first of many sweet temptations. Popping into this baklava bakery, it’s hard to resist such a festival of honey-soaked delights.

Rick: Hey, look at this!

Generations of the local chocolate salesman have worked this little station, peddling a variety of Turkish treats.

Rick: Looks like there’s a lot of different flavors.

Lale: Yes. With hazelnuts and pistachios and dark chocolate and milk chocolate...

Today, Lale loves to give samples.

Lale: Okay. This is the pistachio we’re tasting now.

Rick: This is this one?

Lale: Yes.

Rick: What do you like best?

Shopkeeper: Both.

Rick: Everything’s good!

And to really earn your dessert, try getting some ice cream from this guy.

He’s from Kahramanmaraş, a town in the southeast of Turkey, famous for its toffee-like ice cream. While delicious, it doesn’t come easy…for anyone.

Ice cream vendor: Whoa!

Rick: I want chocolate!…Oh! That’s nice, thank you.