Paris—the “City of Light”—has been a beacon of culture for centuries. As a leader in art, fashion, food, literature, and ideas, I think of it as the capital of Europe.

For perhaps a more relaxing overview of the city, I like a touristic cruise up and down the river. Boats go all the time and come with a light narration. The Seine is the lifeblood of Paris. It’s busy with boatloads of both cargo powering from the Atlantic deep into France and tourists enamored with the parade of Parisian landmarks.

The bridges—bestowed on the city by kings and emperors over the centuries—tell a story. The letter “N” means “Thanks to Napoleon.” The delightfully ornamented Alexander III Bridge celebrates a French–Russian alliance from 1892. And Pont Neuf—that means the “New Bridge”—is actually the oldest. From 1607, it was the first stone bridge crossing the Seine.

The river cuts Paris in two. Going downstream, you’ve got the Right Bank and the Left Bank. Historically, each had a personality: the Right Bank…more grand, elegant—the king’s palace, and the Left Bank…more liberal and funky—the original university district.

Today, the legacy of that university survives in the characteristic Latin Quarter—so named because in the Middle Ages the educated elite spoke Latin. One of the oldest parts of town, you’ll find an inviting student vibe…tangled lanes, sidewalk bookshops, and bustling cafés.

The city was born in ancient times on an island in the middle of the river. It was here on the Ile de la Cité—centuries before Christ—that the Romans conquered a local fishing tribe called the Parisii and founded a city named for them, Paris.

And just upstream from the Ile de la Cité is the petite Ile St. Louis, connected to its big sister by a cute pedestrian bridge. This smaller, more residential island is ’a reminder of how even in the historic core of the city, Paris is a collection of neighborhoods. The island gives us a first taste of this city’s love of good living. It seems to specialize in that joie de vivre—from thriving bistros to decadent ice cream shops, to families and friends gathering on the banks of the river.

Centuries ago, the banks of the Seine were just miserable mud, like a mucky cesspool. Then in the 1800s, these embankments were built—and today, the city no longer turns its back on its river.

Its renovated banks are now thriving—a great equalizer where all citizens can enjoy a waterfront perch. All along the river, Parisians savor the moment, gathering with friends and enjoying a picnic dinner. Summer evenings bring out the crowds, young and old, enjoying urban living at its best.

Once-busy expressways along the riverbank are now closed to cars. And each summer, the city government creates an urban beach for its people. They truck in potted palm trees, hammocks, lounge chairs, and 2,000 tons of sand to make a popular fun zone…a virtual riviera in the city center.

And the fun spills all along the riverbanks. Here, it’s a multi-generational free-for-all—people dancing their hearts out, like an impromptu music festival. Inviting scenes like this offer a perfect chance to see Paris at play…and play with Paris.